June 9, 2012

Journal notes:

• Clocks going back another hour tonight
• See dolphins, but don't get pictures
• Ship's store opens for the first time since my arrival.  I buy a case of Corona and a can of peanuts
• Barbecue!

Pictures:

Left to right: Chief Engineer Eduard Glavan, Captain Claudiu Crisan, Eric, and Harvey

I sleep through breakfast again, waking around 0900.  As I step out of the shower, a voice comes on over the intercom.  We are crossing another time zone, and the clocks will be turned back 1 hour tonight.  I set up a deck chair in my favorite spot and sit down to read.  The Pacific is calm, despite a strong head wind.

At 1020, I glance up from my novel to spot a circle of splashing in front of the ship.  As we approach, I begin to realize, with much excitement, that we are passing a school of dolphins.  They swim past the ship in pairs.  Alas, I have left my camera and camcorder in my cabin, so I cannot take any pictures of them.  I count 6 or 7 frigate birds hunting from the bow.  As the ship's hull cuts through the water, it disturbs the flying fish near the surface.  They leap from wave to wave, flapping their fins to keep them aloft.  The birds swoop down and grab them out of the air, or skim the surface of the water to pluck them out of the sea.

On my way to lunch, I pass Reusora in the stairwell.  He asks if I am going to the party tonight.  "Of course," I answer.  He asks me if I will sing, insisting that "I would like to hear your golden voice."   I laugh, "Sure, sure.  I'll be there."  A few seconds after I sit down at my table, the officers file in.  The chief engineer asks me to meet him in the ship's office tomorrow at 1000 to tour the engine room.  The captain tells us that the party will start at 1800, and the store will be open at 1730.  I plan to get a case of beer and maybe a few snacks.  Everyone is in good spirits today, myself especially.  Sitting on the deck, I have discovered a plan for hanging a hammock from the railings in a quick-release setup.  I will try to procure the supplies when we reach Tahiti, and plan to leave them on the ship for the next passengers.

At 1730, a voice over the intercom announces that the ship's store is open for business, and I head down to A deck to make my purchase, passing several crewmen on their way up to their rooms with cartons of cigarettes.  The "store" is actually a store room.  A list of items and their prices is posted on the wall outside.  Each man hands the captain a card with his name, rank, and a list of items he wishes to purchase.  There are soaps, shampoo, shaving cream, cigarettes, candy bars, chips, peanuts, liquor, soft drinks, and beer - a choice between Beck's or Corona.  I buy a case of Corona and a can of peanuts.  Taking these to my cabin, I put all the beers in the fridge, except one, which I take with me to the aft deck.  The cook and some of the crew are all sanding around the barbecue cooker - an oil drum (still bearing the BP logo), cut in half lengthwise, the halves laid end-to-end.  This is placed in a metal rack, charcoal poured into the barrel halves, and a grate laid across, where the meat is placed - chicken wings, beef ribs, and salmon steaks.  It's all very good, but the salmon is imparted with such a wonderful smoky flavor that it quickly becomes my favorite.

A long table is set amidship, where the rolling of waves is least felt.  There are beers (Corona), bottles of wine, soft drinks, sandwiches, bread pudding (which Harvey likes very much), and a large pot of rice.  I avoid the rice in order that I might have more room for barbecue.  The chief engineer shows us some pictures on his camera, and I learn why he was so busy the other day.  The waters of the Panama Canal are exceedingly dirty, and one of the suction filters for the main engine had become clogged and needed cleaning. His picture shows the filter, turned brown with gunk, with a large piece of plastic over a huge section of it.

We have a wonderful time on the aft deck.  The karaoke machine is brought down from the crew's recreation room.  I am asked to sing the first song, and I oblige them with "A Horse With No Name" by America, chosen because of its line about the ocean.  I finish the song to an unexpected round of applause, and the chief engineer offers me his seat at the table, next to the captain.  I don't quite know what to make of it.  The men at the table are all talking, having a great time.  Nobody else sings - the karaoke machine also plays music videos - Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears, Shakira, and Pussycat Dolls are the favorites.  The crew are all gathered around the TV watching the women instead of singing.  They must go for weeks on end, sometimes months, without seeing their wives (or any other women for that matter).  Harvey comments that it must be a very lonely life at sea, and I am inclined to agree with him.

Now the beer is gone, and along with it my fellow passengers and most of the crew, leaving only myself, sipping Jack Daniel's, and a few of the officers.  The chief officer tells me that tomorrow we will pass the Galapagos islands.  I ask him if we will be able to see them, and he shakes his head.  "I don't think so.  It's restricted."  Britney Spears comes on, and they ask me if I like her.  I joke that it's just as good with the volume off, and they laughingly agree with me.  I point out that Britney Spears is also from Tennessee, and (helping myself to another glass) so is Jack Daniel's.  "Yes, I know this," the chief engineer smiles.  "He and I have been friends a long time."

After the party is over, around 2230, I make my way back up to my room, but noticing how clear the sky is, I take my camera and tripod up to the bridge deck to see if I can get some good pictures of the stars.  Unfortunately, even though I can hold the shutter open for up to 15 seconds, the rocking of the ship on the waves prevents me from getting any good pictures, and I return to my cabin and go to bed.